Leaving Memphis for the day, I head South to Ox ford, MS., a town billing itself as “the cultural Mecca of the South”.

As I walk around the town square at the heart of the historical district, it seems that every window has a black sign with these simple words: “Oxford mourns”.  For a second, I think it might be related to recent news events – and it is, but not one I know of: the small community is grieving six residents killed by a plane crash just days ago. 

The bookstore-and-ice cream parlor (delightful combination) has the sign on its door, but also a wordy tee-shirt in its window. It advocates the repeal of HB 1523, and announces that all are welcome: only guns, smokes, cell-phone use and yelling are prohibited in the store, and the store owner wants us to know that people in Mississippi are “amongst the nicest, most hospitable in America”.

“Square Books” does indeed qualify as one of the most hospitable bookstore I have visited. I could (and do) browse here for a very, very long time.

The ground floor table is lined with recommendations and books by authors who will soon be talking and signing here; the wall by the staircase is covered in autographed photos – including one of Trent Lott, the former Republican majority leader, holding Mammacita “the most tolerant Democratic” bookstore cat. Signs advertise First edition and Signed copies, two great “gift ideas”.  Upstairs, I discover the promised ice-cream and coffee parlor, the outdoors balcony, as well as excellent sections about the arts, and a Faulkner section naturally (the town was his home, and is now that of John Grisham amongst others).

The literary section full of detailed advocacy notes. I would not dare call them “staff pick”, as they are so detailed, and written with flair. I do not find any book by Michel Tournier (nor do I find any of his works later amongst the collectibles at the “Off Square” branch of the bookstore, but I do see signed copies and first editions of another favorite, Walker Percy).

As I linger in the “T” area of the literature section, I end up chosing a recommendation by Richard, one of the original founders of the bookshop: “Vexation Lullaby” , a novel by Justin Tussing.

Later, I read inside the book cover that it received a Ken Kesey award: how appropriate for me, as I am (slowly, I confess) finishing my reading of “Sometimes a Great Notion”.